party skirt Kruseling size
Making a Tulle Skirt for Kruseling Dolls 1.6 scale

Making a tulle skirt for your Kruseling doll is relatively easy. It consists of layers of 6 inch wide soft net that are sewn together and gathered. Bias binding tape is used for the waistband and a single snap fastener/press stud fastens it at the back.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

This skirt is available in the party category of the Little Miss dressy shop and comes in purple, orange, yellow and green (the party outfits comprise a skirt, a crop top and slider sandals).

Here’s how it’s made:-

First I made a sample skirt to test it for size and see how it would look. For the waistband, I had used a strip of fabric and realised a bias cut piece would give a much smoother finish. This was because once the skirt section had been gathered it curved naturally at the waist.

I then sought a practical method of sewing several skirts in a row so that my work process flowed in a way that suited me. Of course this method might not be perfect for others but it’s how I shall describe it here.

Materials for Making a Tulle Skirt:-

  • Cardboard template measuring 6″ x 15″ (or 15cm by 38cm)
  • Some small weights
  • Soft net or tulle, 5 pieces of 6″ x 15″ (6 inch rolls are ideal)
  • Good quality satin bias binding tape (not the cheap, loosely woven type), 5¼” long
  • Snap fastener 5mm
  • Lighter (to seal the bias tape edges)
  • Ruler, pencil, scissors, pins, needle, thread, stick picker

Prepare the layers one at a time; measuring, marking and cutting them. Cut 4 pieces from plain coloured tulle and 1 piece of decorated tulle.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

Use the weights to keep the layers in place on top of each other and pin 2 rows about 1″ apart, along the length of the tulle. Measure and mark the centre of the tulle and machine sew the full length along it as shown below, then remove the pins.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

Keep the decorative layer side up and fold the tulle along the centre line where it has been sewn. Pin it down if necessary. This gives you a rectangle 3″ x 15″ that has 10 layers of tulle. Sew along the folded edge to keep it in place.

Set the machine stitch length to 5 and sew 2 rows along the folded edge as shown below, keeping long thread tails at each end for gathering.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

Gather the rows evenly until the piece measures 4½” at the waist and tie the threads at each end.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

Using a lighter, carefully seal the two edges of the bias tape to stop it fraying. It’s not entirely necessary but it does make it easier later on when hand stitching the waistband.

Folding in the ends of the tulle, attach the bias tape to the waistline at about 1cm from the edge ( I hand-basted first and then machine sewed) leaving excess at each end.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

The final part takes a little bit of patience to get a neat finish and it’s all hand sewn.

Fold over the bias tape and pin it in place, making sure the ends are neatly folded in. I had to double fold because of the width of tape I used. It does give a bulkier waistband but I like the finished look.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

Any gathered stitching that is showing after the waistband is added will need to be carefully removed. For this I used a small stitch remover but it can also be done with a pin.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

Lastly, attach the snap fastener to the waistband.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

Hand sewing is not my favourite pastime but at least I was able to sew on fasteners whilst listening to my audio book and enjoying the lockdown sunshine.

Here are Joy and Sofia in their party outfits, enjoying a chat and keeping cool with a cold drink.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls

What’s great too is that this size fits the Mini Amigas doll range by Paola Reina, so Joy and Sofia invited Elena to join them.

making a tulle skirt for 9 inch dolls
make a garden seat for your doll
Make a Garden Seat for your Doll 1.6 scale

How to make a garden seat for your doll using lollipop sticks and a glue gun. This took me an afternoon to make and I only needed to make a cut on 4 lollipop sticks (4 halves for the seat’s front legs and 4 halves for the seats). The rest were used singly by placing and gluing together. A total of 56 lollipop sticks were used. There wasn’t much measuring involved and I did a lot of this by eye, but I did take photos for each step in case anyone else would care to make their own.

I started by finding a picture of a garden seat that I wanted, purely to give me an idea of the structure. I soon realised that if I wanted to copy the seat in the photo exactly that I’d need to make several cuts, so I changed the design as I went along. I decided to make 2 wide chairs and join them together (somehow). I made both the chairs at the same time instead of one chair and then the next. So for each step that is listed below, I did twice before doing the next step.

Chair Back

For each chair there are 2 rear uprights that are the length of 2 lollipop sticks. The 2 sticks are joined together by overlapping with a 3rd stick. So each upright uses 3 sticks. Be sure to measure the overlapping stick at the halfway mark as this is important to make the chair sit evenly.

The uprights have 2 horizontal supporting bars.

They also have 3 more sticks for the headrest.

Chair Seat

Each chair uses 5 lollipop sticks with 1 cut in half. The image below is showing 2 in half to be ready for making both chairs.

1. Glue the 2 halves to one stick, at right angles on each end.

2. Glue another stick to the other ends (making a rectangle).

3. Glue 3 more sticks in the centre as horizontal slats.

Make a garden seat for your doll

Fix Chair Seat to Chair Back

This is where it can get a bit tricky so best not to rush it. When I placed the chair seat onto the chair back I realised that it needed a horizontal bracing bar to help keep it in place. (I had measured the doll’s legs beforehand and knew that I wanted the seat to be 6 cm above the floor).

4. Mark 6cm up from the bottom of the chair back and glue a stick horizontally across from back leg to back leg.

5. Glue the chair seat at right angles, onto the bracing bar.

Make a garden seat for your doll
Make a garden seat for your doll

Front Legs

This part uses 2 lollipop sticks with 1 full length and 1 cut into 2 halves. It’s basically a long C-shape.

6. Glue the 2 halves to the full length stick, at right angles to both ends of the stick.

Fix Front Legs to Chair

This is also a bit fiddly. I rested the chair piece upside down onto the edge of my work table.

7. Put some hot glue onto the chair legs, place the C-piece firmly onto the chair seat (front), holding in place until glue sets.

At this stage I could see the garden seat taking on a bit of shape so simply had to try it out on Joy #Kruseling.

Joy #Kruseling sitting on a chair made from lollipop sticks

I also had to figure out the best way to join both seats together. I decided that setting them at right angles would be best. This is where the glue went where I didn’t want it to and I ended up with a bog blob, which I left there until the very end before I removed it (it helped keep it in place…..).


The idea for this only came to me after I had made the seats. It was the challenge of fixing the 2 seats together that made me think of how to make the canopy, as it needed to help stabilize the whole structure. I used 11 lollipop sticks for the canopy, starting with a T-bar and then fanning out the other sticks so they would span both chairs. I placed the lollipop sticks on the table in a rough shape, holding the chair piece upside down over it, to be sure the size was right. This was also how I placed the canopy when gluing it to the seat.

Make a garden seat for your doll

The steps are shown in the 5 photos below.

Centre Back

The final part was to match the centre piece to the side pieces. For this part 5 lollipop sticks were glued to the back rests as shown in the 2 photos below.

Make a garden seat for your doll


All that was left was to snip the big dollop of glue off of the chair legs and no matter how tidy I was trying to be with my gluing there were glue strands in places that needed picking off too. It was ready for painting!

Joy #Kruseling sitting on a garden seat made from lollipop sticks

Here it is after one coat of garden fence paint and with Joy sitting comfortably in the sunshine.

Joy #Kruseling sitting on a garden seat made from lollipop sticks, a small doll's garden seat

I think it would make an ideal gift for any small doll lover. As well as Kruselings, this size also fits a seated Barbie. If you have a go and make a garden seat for your doll then do please send me a photo – I’d love to see it!

dress for a 9" Kruseling doll
Make a Dress for your Kruseling Doll 1.6 scale

Little Miss Dressy would like to show you how to make a dress for your Kruseling. Here’s how the pink and white stripe, long bodice dress with lace skirt was constructed. It’s part of the Spring season range.

For this dress, the bodice is a loose fit because it falls to the hip line, which is wider than at the chest.

To start with, the 3 bodice pieces are cut for the outer and lining fabrics. These are then sewn at the shoulder seams and seams pressed open.

dress pattern pieces for a Kruseling doll

Next, the skirt was constructed by sewing 3 layers of lace flat onto an underskirt piece of lining fabric. Then the side edges were overlocked.

skirt piece for making a Kruseling doll's dress

Next, the bodice sections are placed right sides together and sewn, as indicated by the red tacking stitches in the photo. The curved edges of the neckline and armhole will need to be notched carefully, so that the bodice lays flat after it has been turned to show the right side out.

dress bodice piece for a Kruseling doll

To turn the bodice right side out, you need to pull the back side piece through the shoulder out to the front and this is easier if you use forceps like these.


At this stage the bodice will need a good iron to flatten the edges around the neck and arms. Sorry, I forgot to take a photo of this part, which would have explained it much better.

Next, sew the side seams together by first matching the underarm and pinning together. Being so small and fiddly, I always tack the sides before machine stitching.

Kruseling doll's dress bodice lining

I found a great YouTube video by Handmade By Ditsy-Tulip showing how to sew the side seams of a lined bodice.

Next, the skirt section is gathered. Two rows of stitching are sewn at the top edge using a long stitch length (I use 5.0 on my machine) and the cottons are pulled at each end to gather-in the fabric. Care is taken to do this evenly and I use heavy weights to keep the small skirt in one place.

gathered skirt piece for making a doll's dress

The bodice piece and skirt section are then ready to be stitched together. The centre and edges of the bodice and skirt are pinned together first, and then I use a weight to keep it in place while pining the rest.

doll dress pieces for a Kruseling

I tack the pieces along the seam’s edge and remove the pins before machine sewing them together. At this stage it is only the outer fabric of the bodice that is attached to the skirt and not the lining.

attaching the bodice to the skirt of the doll's dress

The final stage is to hand finish stitching the bodice lining to the skirt, add the Little Miss Dressy label and sew on the neck fastener to the back.

making a dress for a Kruseling doll
dress with label for a Kruseling doll

Here’s our Kruseling playing in her finished dress.

9 inch high Kruseling doll, Joy
9 inch high Kruseling doll, Joy and Sofia
Kruseling doll 36.37mm Pink Blue flip flops 1.6 scale (3)
Make Slider Sandals for your Kruseling Doll 1.6 scale

If you want to know how to make slider sandals for your Kruseling doll then this post will help.

Little Miss Dressy wanted a sparkly, flip-flop or slider sandal to go with the dolls clothes it sells, ideally in a matching colour.  So, clothing production was paused and the idea of making them gained ground.  Time passed browsing the web, seeing what was already out there and again noticing that there was not much on offer for Kruselings. Decision was made to make them. I mean honestly, I asked myself “how hard could it be?”

Here’s how it went…..

Testing Phase

First I experimented with some foam stickers and ribbon that I already had. Indeed, my idea  worked, but my cutting skills lacked consistency. I really didn’t like the uneven, finished edge of the sole and using an emery board to smooth it off, didn’t work.


Chatting to my practical husband and, whose brain operates completely different to mine, he said “a cutting die would do the job in no time……” but I didn’t have one, nor was I intending to mass produce. I think he soon regretted his input, having then got tasked with making me one, and  then cut out all my soles. “Teamwork” I told him.


Four soles, 2 each of left and right feet are needed. On one pair, a slit is made on either side of the sole. In this case it was 10mm wide and slightly curved.

Two sections of ribbon or braid are needed for the upper part and in this case they were 40mm long. These wrap over the foot and get tucked in through the side slits, folding under the top layer and in-between the top and bottom layers. (Care is needed not to tear the edge by the side slits when squeezing the ribbon through them).


The paper backing of the foam sole is peeled back gradually, starting at the toe, after the upper part has been put through the slits. (The sides tend to bulge out and need to be gently pushed back and stuck to the bottom sole).

The bottom sole is placed onto the top sole, starting at the toe, making sure neither soles overlap at the edges. (Not easy if rushed, and it helps to have the sandal on the doll’s foot when doing this).

Once this part is done, the sandal upper is securely stuck between the top and bottom soles.

Next was the heel section and I found this better to manage if I took the sandal off the doll’s foot. Remove the rest of the backing paper slowly, allowing the remaining top and bottom soles to stick together, again making sure neither overlap.

Quality Control

I always want perfection but sometimes have to make do with less than that. What I see, others sometimes do not and at times it really is in the eye of the beholder. But the camera shows everything! Up close is the real test.

Try as I did to get both top and bottom soles stuck together evenly, the final effect did not satisfy my eye. After more brainstorming/chatting to my husband, I got handed a rotary drill, a quick lesson for using it and instructions on how to “take control” of it. It did the job just fine, blending the edges of top and bottom soles together, enough to pass my quality control.

Little Miss Dressy plans to have sliders that will match the dresses and separates available but why not have a go making them yourself? If you’d like to make slider sandals for your Kruseling doll then here’s what you’ll need:

  • Sticky back foam sheet
  • Pencil for marking
  • Paper template of your doll’s foot
  • Craft knife
  • Scissors
  • Ribbon or thin braid
  • Measuring tool
  • Tweezers

A rotary drill is only needed if you want a smoother, finished edge to the soles.

Good luck and happy crafting!